Neil Littman compares and contrasts two Caribbean restaurants in eastern Enfield

Yum Yums’ jerk chicken and Guinness punch

I think Caribbean food is very under-represented in Enfield and I wonder why it isn’t more popular, having been championed by chefs such as Levi Roots (of ‘Reggae Reggae’ sauce fame) and Ainsley Harriott.

It could be competition from other food trends such as Korean or African, or because it’s perceived as street food rather than restaurant food given its resemblance to home-style cooking.

Some years ago, when I moved to Enfield, a favourite place of mine was Caribbean Junction, at Great Cambridge Roundabout. A year later the place burned down, never to open again, and I would satisfy any yearning for jerk chicken by travelling to Wood Green or Tottenham. Thankfully, during that time, I also learned to cook Caribbean food with the assistance of my knowledgeable girlfriend.

More recently, I have discovered several places in Enfield serving Caribbean food. Some are takeaway only, including Carribreak, a popular street food stall at Enfield Town Market. But as far as dining in goes, there are just two restaurants I know of in the local area. One is a branch of the Brown Eagle chain in Enfield Wash and the other is Yum Yums, just off the A10 near Carterhatch Lane.

My first visit was to Brown Eagle. Early on a Thursday evening, apart from a steady stream of delivery bikes, I was the only customer in the place.

There was no menu on display and the place was very dark. Undaunted, I ordered jerk chicken, but was told it had sold out. I was recommended the brown stew chicken, so I ordered a portion accompanied by rice and peas (a Caribbean staple of long-grain rice and red kidney beans plus all-spice berries, thyme, Scotch bonnet pepper and a dash of coconut milk). The dish was also served with coleslaw and ‘festival’, a sweet and savoury dumpling, plus a bottle of fruit punch. Although I thought the chicken had been stewed a bit too long, the rest was good.

Old school reggae played in the background, but I admit it was a slightly strange experience eating on my own in an empty restaurant. For a total cost of £19, however, it was good value.

Brown Eagle’s stewed chicken with rice and peas

A week later, I visited Yum Yums which, despite dining solo again, was a better all-round experience. I received a friendly greeting and the atmosphere was welcoming, with a brightly-lit and nicely furnished dining area. Other customers came in to order takeaways.

I ordered jerk chicken with rice and peas, plus a portion of chickpea curry which my friendly server suggested I should take home as “you will never eat all of that”. She was right! I also ended up taking half my jerk chicken away as well. Everything tasted good and well spiced, including the jerk sauce which covered the chicken and sweet carrots which I ate while being serenaded by Bob Marley in concert on their TV screen.

I was also recommended a homemade Guinness punch, made by adding two kinds of milk plus nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla extract to the famous Irish stout beer – sweet and spicy with bit of a kick. The total bill came to £27 including the take-out chickpea curry. According to the receipt everything was a ‘large’ portion!

Yum Yums has an extensive menu including fried fish, curried goat and vegetarian dishes and they also do home delivery.

For more information about Yum Yums:
Visit acefood.uk/yumyum

For more information about Brown Eagle:
Visit browneagle.co.uk

Do you have any suggestions for restaurants in Enfield to review or feedback on the places Neil has already reviewed? He would love to hear from Dispatch readers:
Email [email protected]

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