Neil Littman enjoys eating out at a unique restaurant in Green Lanes

Sometimes good places to eat are almost on your doorstep but you don’t immediately notice them. I’ve lived in Winchmore Hill for nearly ten years and passed by Babinondas in Green Lanes many times on the bus or on foot, but hadn’t gone in until recently.

I finally visited Babinondas on a Sunday evening, walking there by way of the New River. From the outside it looks unlike other restaurants in the area and is best described as ‘classic taverna’ – my housemate tells me there are lots of places like this in Cyprus. I remarked to my dining companion it was like being in a time warp.

What did impress me was the welcome. A few restaurants make a genuine effort to welcome diners beyond asking “have you booked?” but the greeting at Babinondas made us smile when the owner shook our hands and said “nice to see you again” despite having never met us before! On the second visit a few days later, he said the same again – only this time it was true.

We ordered the mini meze, a bargain at £17.95 and a good way to taste a bit of everything they have on offer. The menu offers traditional Greek-Cypriot dishes with “approximately” seven starters including hummus, taramosalata, tzatziki and various salads followed by a hot extra starter of vegetarian fritters and deep-fried mushrooms.

It turned out to be nine dishes in total and, to be honest, it was a bit hit and miss with some dishes better than others. I could have done without the crabsticks, and the taramosalata was lacking in fishiness but, overall, it felt more like dining with your relatives than a restaurant. And who is really going to criticise their family cooking?

The mains were very good. My friend had the pork souvlaki and I ordered seabass. Both were served with home-made chips and salad. On the first visit we drank Keo beer and on the second ordered their house wine which they make themselves and was one of the best I have drunk anywhere – smooth and not too strong. I forgot to ask if they sell it by the bottle to takeaway but it is priced at only £16.50 to drink at the table.

On our first visit, one of the dishes served was a complimentary plate of olives and pickled vegetables that my friend demolished before I had a chance to take a photo, hence the excuse for another visit and also to make sure my initial impressions had been correct, and I wasn’t imagining that I was on holiday in Cyprus.

Babinondas is more than a restaurant. Many people hold birthdays or other parties here when allowed: I was told various Cypriot organisations have monthly get-togethers in the large dining room and there’s a Greek night with a special mezze menu, a band, and the inevitable dancing.

At the end of the meal, the offer of a free drink and more handshaking with the owner, we left very happy. The restaurant was busy on both occasions we visited, a Sunday and Tuesday evening, so I think booking is advisable at other times. The price for two with drinks, including service, was £54.

Babinondas can be found at 598 Green Lanes (N13 5RY) and is open Monday-Saturday, from 5.30pm-10.30pm, and Sunday 12.30pm-10pm. To book:
Call 020 8886 1010
Visit babynondas.net

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