While many Indian restaurants close their doors, Neil Littman visits two in Enfield that continue to thrive

Rice, chicken naga, and chickpea curry at Coriander

Back in 2022 when I wrote my first review of Indian restaurants in Enfield they seemed to be going from strength to strength. Things have changed since then, and sadly there are fewer of them now – much like the decline of local pubs.

In the words of the Joni Mitchell song, “you don’t know what you’ve got ‘til it’s gone” and, while I don’t know the precise reasons for the decline, it seems to be happening in other places too. In Brick Lane in the East End, for example, which was (and still is) a go-to place for Indian food, the number of Indian restaurants has declined from 60 to 20 in the past two decades, even though the overall number of eating establishments has increased.

In Enfield, Dipali in Palmers Green has closed its doors after 50 years and the former Romna Gate restaurant in Southgate is now being converted into a tattoo parlour.

It could be changing tastes, healthy-eating trends, improvement in supermarket ready-meals, the big increase in home deliveries since the pandemic, or the general cost of living that are all contributing to it.

Also relevant have been social changes, where fewer people want to continue working in the sector and Home Office rules now stipulate minimum salary levels for kitchen staff coming into the UK from overseas with a specific distinction between chefs and cooks. Some of this was confirmed to me in a conversation with the owner of one of the two Indian restaurants I visited for this month’s review.

Coriander has been open for over ten years on the shopping parade in Bramley Road, Oakwood, but has recently reopened after an impressive refit. The smart interior is in tasteful shades of grey and purple and features the obligatory banquettes. It has a good ambience, plus, they have air con!

After ordering a poppadom and a bottle of Cobra, I started with a plate of Adha Jinga (£7.50) which was described as “jumbo prawns marinaded in garlic, ginger, fenugreek, and lemon juice and baked in the Tandoor”. I could taste all the ingredients listed but the prawns were not very ‘jumbo’ in my opinion.

My main course came from the list of Bangladeshi specialities, with the naga chicken curry (£12.50) being well spiced but also eye-wateringly hot due to the Scotch bonnet chillies in the recipe (I must have missed the three chilli symbols on the menu). Nonetheless, it was very good, and the accompanying pilau rice and chana (chickpea) curry were perfect. The total bill came to £38 including service.

My other recent visit was to The Grange Indian Restaurant. I’ve eaten there many times and find it’s very reliable, while not pushing the boat out in terms of adventurous cooking. There is a lack of punch to some of the dishes and main courses are often smothered in sauce, though the vegetable side dishes are very good.

It remains good value, however, with a two-course meal for two costing £66, including service and two beers.

Do you have any suggestions for restaurants in Enfield to review or feedback on the places Neil has already reviewed? He would love to hear from Dispatch readers:
Email [email protected]

No news is bad news

Independent news outlets like ours – reporting for the community without rich backers – are under threat of closure, turning British towns into news deserts.

The audiences they serve know less, understand less, and can do less.

If our coverage has helped you understand our community a little bit better, please consider supporting us with a monthly, yearly or one-off donation.

Choose the news. Don’t lose the news.

Monthly direct debit

Annual direct debit

£5 per month supporters get a digital copy of each month’s paper before anyone else, £10 per month supporters get a digital copy of each month’s paper before anyone else and a print copy posted to them each month. £50 annual supporters get a digital copy of each month's paper before anyone else.