Joining the supper club

Neil Littman enjoys a set menu at The Winchmore Hill Supper Club

Massaman curry with rice and Japanese cucumber salad

I’ve noticed a lot of restaurants now promote their ‘journey’ or ‘story’ to make connections with diners, but I don’t find it that convincing when the messages, though accurate, are not memorable or original.

However, there are compelling reasons to believe The Winchmore Hill Supper Club has got a genuinely good story to tell about its ambitions and aspirations to change the culinary landscape in Enfield, by offering something different through well-earned experience.

The supper club is headed by Holly Ashdown, a chef with a decade of hospitality experience, having begun as a bartender at The Kings Head in Winchmore Hill. She later worked alongside culinary icons like Angela Hartnett, José Pizarro and Michel Roux Junior, as well as collaborating with top restaurants such as Som Saa, Bubala and Oklava.

Holly’s inspiration for The Winchmore Hill Supper Club came from exploring the dynamic world of food start-ups, with roles at Grub Club and Eatwith, where her love for supper clubs flourished. It was hosted initially at The Larder but then stopped temporarily due to the pandemic.

Holly came back with a bigger and better offer a couple of years ago that currently takes place at two venues; Chi-Chis in Green Lanes (with its great cocktail bar and stylish interior), and Holtwhites in Palmers Green (where they have communal tables plus the bonus of ‘bring your own’ alcohol).

The Winchmore Hill Supper Club is a different kind of eating out experience, in that you’re potentially surrounded by like-minded people, comforted by all being there for the same experience, and served the same menu (with some vegetarian options).

It is a very interesting concept and is more permanent than most ‘pop-ups’, helping to support existing local venues.

I went there on my own after a hectic week but, despite that, I found it a fun experience. The occasion was an ‘Asian night’ starting at 6.30pm.

The four-course menu included chicken satay skewers to start (with a tofu alternative available), which I thought was the star dish. The moreish peanut sauce, with lime juice, was a combination I could have eaten several portions of.

The next course was a prawn bao bun with plum sauce (or soy and maple marinated oyster mushrooms, whipped tofu and chilli crisp). The dip with the bao buns was a spicy hoisin and plum sauce and the bun was like a brioche with a crusty outer and soft inner texture filled ‘chunky prawn toast style’ and covered in nigella and sesame seeds. Delicious!

The main course was Malaysian beef massaman curry or tofu and mixed vegetable massaman curry with yellow peppers, tofu and potato, which tasted of tamarind and lemon grass and had a nice blast of chilli heat. It was served with steamed basmati rice, smashed cucumber and garlic salad alongside miso, soy and chopped peanuts with a recognisable and welcome umami flavour. For dessert there was mango sticky rice, served warm.

The noise level of the conversation in the room was very loud, a sign of how much people were enjoying themselves. Although I was there on my own for that first visit, I still managed to have a few side conversations with other tables, followed by a chat with Holly, which was very interesting and informative.

The supper club also offers seasonal menus, themed around French, Thai, Indian and Italian cuisine. Holly’s cooking is of a high standard with good ingredients, and impeccable flavours. Anyone can go, but the catch is you need to sign up for the free online newsletter and be prepared to fork out at least £50 per head. But what you get for that is one of the best dining experiences in Enfield!

For more information:
Email [email protected]
Visit thewinchmorehillsupperclub.com

Do you have any suggestions for restaurants in Enfield to review or feedback on the places Neil has already reviewed? He would love to hear from Dispatch readers:
Email [email protected]

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