Why running a pub has never been harder

The leaseholder of a Southgate boozer tells Alice Ashcroft there’s still no end in sight for the problems affecting the industry

Stephanie and Kevin behind the bar at The Fishmonger's Arms — Stephanie and Kevin behind the bar at The Fishmonger’s Arms

The impact of rising costs on the hospitality industry continues to be felt across the UK – and is increasingly impacting local communities where pubs are part of our shared culture.

To get some insight into why running a pub is now so difficult, the Dispatch recently sat down with the leaseholder of two Enfield pubs.

Stephanie Lambie runs The Fishmonger’s Arms in Southgate with her partner Kevin, and has also recently taken on the leasehold for The Queen’s Head in Winchmore Hill.

“It leaves us scared for our future, because this is our home,” Stephanie tells the Dispatch. “We don’t want to be charging those [high] prices, but our hands are completely tied.”

In recent years it has become almost impossible for pub leaseholders to make a profit, Stephanie explains. Many pubs are tied into using a certain brewery that sets their prices, which means they cannot simply source alcohol from wherever it is cheapest. Further expenses for The Fishmonger’s Arms include a Sky Sports subscription, which Stephanie says costs them £30,000 per year. It remains essential for pubs where customers expect live sports.

Rising costs – such as wages – need to be passed on to customers as well. But this puts leaseholders like Stephanie and Kevin in a difficult position.

“This is our livelihood and we’re not making money,” she says. “We can’t afford to pay the bills, and we don’t get help from the breweries at all.”

The problems facing pubs have become a nationwide crisis. This month, the British Beer and Pub Association (BBPA) estimated that Britain is set to lose one pub a day by the end of 2026, costing 5,000 people their jobs and almost £72million in tax receipts for the government.

Some areas have already been hit hard by the crisis. For example Ponders End, in eastern Enfield, once boasted several pubs – but the last one closed in April 2024.

Although Prime Minister Andy Burhnam’s government has recognised the issue, promising a 20% business rate cut for pubs in England, Stephanie and Kevin do not believe this will not make enough of a difference.

“I have zero confidence in the government. They talk the talk, but they’re not going to do anything.”

A lack of support for business owners and the mounting costs that come with taking on the leasehold on a pub is making the industry unsustainable, the pair argue. Since Stephanie took over the leasehold of The Queen’s Head in June of this year, she has not yet seen any return on her investment.

The Fishmonger’s Arms was also recently renovated in a bid to change its fortunes, but rising rent alongside continuing difficulties in turning a profit may force Stephanie to close it within six months.

“So much love went into the pub,” she says. “That’s what makes it really upsetting.”

For many vulnerable people, going to the pub and socialising is an important part of their daily routine. Stephanie notes how regulars at The Fishmonger’s Arms meet at the pub to mingle and organise running errands for each other, and if someone doesn’t come in as usual their absence is felt.

She also recalls a recent incident where a group of kids came to the pub because they were being pursued by a gang threatening to steal their phones, but staff were able to call the police and provide them a place to wait until they arrived.

However, with a lack of adequate support from the government, safe havens such as The Fishmonger’s Arms will be forced to close.

“I believe, in ten years, there will be hardly any pubs left,” admits Stephanie.

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