Enfield's hot new Chinese restaurant

Neil Littman visits Guangzhou in Southgate Green to sample a delicious – if spicy – menu

It wasn’t my intention to review three Chinese restaurants in the space of six months. However, Guangzhou is one of several new openings and is a good addition to the area that is well worth a visit.

I wouldn’t have known about Guangzhou if I hadn’t been stuck in traffic one day and spotted the site formerly occupied by Highland Angus Steakhouse in Southgate Green displaying a sign announcing they were “opening soon”.

I subsequently received a couple of emails from Dispatch readers recommending the restaurant, for which I would like to say a big thank you.

Guangzhou‘s cuisine is Cantonese, but their menu also offers some Sichuan and Malaysian-style satay dishes. The interior has had a makeover, replacing some tables with smart dark blue banquettes, improved lighting, and updating the former tartan check carpet in favour of a more contemporary wood flooring.

According to their Facebook page, the kitchen is run by head chef Pak-Sum Lee, who has over 30 years’ experience. The menu is concise compared to other Chinese restaurants I’ve been to, although I hope in future they might offer dim sum which isn’t just a staple of Chinese cuisine, but also from the Guangzhou (Canton) region.

My first visit was during the week of Chinese New Year. Complimentary prawn crackers arrived first, and I ordered a bottle of Lucky Buddha, a crisp and light Asian-style lager. My starter of salt and pepper soft shell crab was the size of a main course (£16.80) and reduced me to tears after a few mouthfuls – the chilli was ‘ma-la’ (numbing hot) and took my breath away. Despite this, it tasted very good!

I followed this with something a bit milder, a classic kung pao chicken dish (£17.50) with yellow bean paste and roasted cashew nuts, plus a portion of egg fried rice.

I paid a second visit a few weeks later, at the weekend, when the restaurant was very busy. There were several groups of families and I could tell that most of the customers were not making a first visit. I ordered a quarter of crispy duck with cucumber, spring onion and hoisin sauce (£22.50). The duck was listed as a starter for two or main course for one, and the lemon-scented wet wipe came in handy after assembling the pancakes by hand!

As I was recovering from the tail-end of a bad cold, I ordered Chinese tea (refilled at no charge) and – forgetting the soft-shell crab experience – I ordered the salt and pepper squid (£17.90), again underestimating the power of the red chillies.

Incidentally, the restaurant has posted videos on their Facebook page showing how they prepare their squid and their other culinary skills, such as their sizzling dishes. Considering the short time they have been open, there is a confidence in the cooking and service that already makes the place feel well established.

The service is also good and very attentive, and the cost per person is about £30-£50, not including drinks. But note that at present, they don’t offer takeaway or home deliveries, and booking is advisable on Fridays and Saturdays.

Guangzhou Chinese Restaurant can be found at 43 Cannon Hill, Southgate N14 6LH. To see opening times and menus:
Visit guangzhourestaurant.co.uk

Do you have any suggestions for restaurants in Enfield to review or feedback on the places Neil has already reviewed? He would love to hear from Dispatch readers:
Email [email protected]

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